Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Blazing a Trail




TRO BREIZ - Treguier to St Brieuc

2nd May 2009. Sue, Roger, Sybil and Phil.
We met at Treguier, where we visited the Cathedral of St Tugdual and explored the surrounding area. The cathedral is also the centre of worship of St Yves, Patron Saint of Brittany, and it seemed to us that he featured rather more prominently than St Tugdual himself. The Cathedral spire is interesting in that it is decorated with piercings in the form of the symbols on playing cards, evidently in acknowledgement of financial help given by the town’s casino towards building costs. To the north of the cathedral , in a small square, is a very moving war memorial in the form of a grieving Breton woman clothed in a cape of mourning.
We then crossed the River Jaudy and followed the riverside route northwards in search of the Allee Couverte marked on our map. This is some 2 km north of Kerbors and looks out over the Jaudy estuary. It is in the form of a chamber, with massive capstones supported on vertical stone slabs. We will hope to do some research on this structure, and report on it in a later bulletin.

1st July 2009. Sue, Roger, Sybil and Judith.
We again met at Treguier, and found that it was Market Day – a Wednesday. The market is very extensive, occupying Cathedral square ad extending down the hill to the area by the river. The weather was fine and the market was crowded. The usual mix of food, clothing and miscellaneous items were displayed, and included a man from Reunion who was selling Batic tablecloths and mats made in Zimbabwe.
We then left the town in search of the three chapels mentioned in the Tro Breiz booklet and took minor roads to St Nicholas. We found the small chapel which, however, was enclosed within a private garden and thus appeared inaccessible. The adjoining house was in a style known as Maison Anglaise. They feature an extension of the roof to cover a balcony on the upper floor. We then went on to Traou Meur and the second chapel. This was a small restored chapel in a street lined with houses and gardens, and was firmly locked! No notice about opening times. We found a broken pane in a window at the back, and splinters on the inside sill indicated that it had been broken recently. Our third chapel, St Voltom, was in a lovely position overlooking the Jaudy, A school party were picnicking there, playing games on the grass around the chapel and the small calvaire close by. The chapel was restored, but very sympathetically. Very simple inside, with plain wooden pews, a beautiful modern stained glass window depicting fishes. Two carved and painted wooden statues, one of St Voltom with a Bishop’s mitre, and a simple one of Mary and Jesus. We picnicked on the foreshore near Bilvero and watched the tide slowly coming in. As it advanced up the tiny creek in front of us several mullet appeared and began to feed, darting to and fro just below the surface. Having returned to our car, we noticed a newly restored building close by. Sue got out and began peering through the windows, then realised that there were people inside. Awkward! She hastily got back into the car, but too late; a lady opened the door and asked if we wanted anything? So we had to confess that we were being curious! Which she seemed to quite understand, and was extremely pleasant, especially when we explained what we were doing. We declined her very genuine invitation to come in, explaining that we had to move on to the garden at Kerdalo. These are at Tredarzec, signposted from the D20. They are privately owned but open to the public in most months of the year. Visits for groups can be arranged throughout the year. Created by Prince Peter Wolkonsky who had the dream and his daughter carried this on to create this lovely great garden. She is married to landscape architect Timothy Vaughan. We spent about 2 hours wandering around it and could have spent longer. There is good parking and also a Portaloo (clean)! Entrance is 8 euros. There is an illustrated guide book in very good English! 4 euros. We were told that in the first and second weeks of May there is a good display of Rhododendrons and Azealeas.

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